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Nestled within the inland of the breathtaking region of Marina Alta in Spain, La Vall de Laguar is a splendid union of three picturesque towns: Campell, Fleix, and Benimaurell, plus Fontilles – a renowned senatorium and research center for the diseases of the poor. Each of these towns boasts its unique charm, telling tales of ancient civilizations, vibrant cultures, and the rich tapestry of Spanish history.
Visitors to La Vall de Laguar are often drawn to its enchanting vistas, a blend of serene mountains and lush valleys. The landscape here paints a picture of untouched nature and promises an intimate experience with the land’s pure essence. The region offers an array of activities, from trekking along the rugged mountain trails to indulging in the tranquil beauty of its valleys. For those who seek an authentic Spanish experience, La Vall de Laguar serves as a portal to the past, all while offering modern comforts and amenities.
For the discerning traveler, a trip to La Vall de Laguar isn’t just about the sights; it’s a call to connect deeply with the soul of Spain. The allure of the towns and their heartwarming residents beckons you to immerse yourself in their way of life. As you plan your next adventure, consider the magic of La Vall de Laguar and embrace the opportunity to journey through time and beauty.
But beneath the idyllic silent landscapes lies a tale of a bloody resistance and legend, centered around the Cavall Verd Ridge (Valenciano as “Cavall Verd” and Castellano “Caballo Verde”). This area, resonating with the echoes of history, was the final bastion of the Moors, who faced their forced exile in 1609. The legend woven into these hills speaks of Ezzme de Laguart, a renowned sorceress and healer from Laguar, whose prophecy of the green horse sparked a rebellion against their expulsion.
In a valiant stand, 1500 local rebels, led by the farmer Mellini, gathered at the Cavall Verd crest, armed with mere slingshots, stones, and a crossbow, to face a formidable force of five thousand battle-hardened soldiers from Naples and Sicily. Despite their courage, the Moorish resistance met a tragic end, with many choosing to leap from the cliffs or hide in the Cavall Verd caves rather than face defeat. This tragic conflict saw the valley emptied of its original inhabitants, only to be repopulated in 1611 by settlers from Mallorca, whose descendants still carry the legacy of this historical moment in their family names today.
Steeped in history and surrounded by natural splendor, Campell stands as a testament to the timeless beauty of Marina Alta. Originally established as an Iberian settlement, the town has witnessed the ebb and flow of various cultures, from the Romans to the Moors, and then back to the Christians. These historic imprints are evident in the town’s architecture, blending Moorish designs with more modern Spanish influences.
Today, Campell is a harmonious mix of the past and present. Its narrow cobbled streets lead visitors through a maze of quaint houses, with bursts of colorful flowers adorning balconies and courtyards. The town square, buzzing with life, serves as a gathering spot for both locals and tourists alike, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the community. Modern amenities have found their place in Campell without overshadowing its historic charm. Local cafes and eateries provide a culinary journey, highlighting the region’s rich flavors and traditional recipes. As night falls, the town transforms into a peaceful haven, with the soft glow of street lamps illuminating its charming pathways.
Also known as Poble d’Enmig (“Town of In the Middle”), Fleix is not just a tranquil little town in the heart of La Vall de Laguer. It is a town with roots that trace back centuries, Fleix’s historical narrative is as captivating as its scenic beauty. I was once a strategic stronghold during the era of the Moors. Its elevated location provided both defense and a vantage point overlooking the majestic valleys below. But, after the expulsion of the Moors and repopulation in 1611, Fleix joined arms with Benimaurell and Campell to form a single unit.
Today, Fleix has maintained its quaint charm, seamlessly blending the old with the new. Its winding alleys echo tales of yesteryears, guiding visitors past beautifully preserved stone houses, remnants of ancient fortifications, and the iconic church that stands as the town’s spiritual heart. The church’s bell, with its melodious chimes, punctuates the daily rhythm of life in Fleix.
While the town may seem secluded at first glance, it’s this very seclusion that lends it its unparalleled charm. Modern conveniences, though present, take a backseat, allowing the town’s history and nature to shine. Whether it’s indulging in local delicacies at a family-owned eatery, hiking and embracing the marvelous nature of La Vall de Laguar, or simply basking in the panoramic views from a hilltop, Fleix invites you to slow down, breathe deep, and savor every moment.
Situated amidst the undulating landscapes of La Vall de Laguar, Benimaurell is a gem that sparkles with a rich cultural heritage. Its origins are steeped in stories of ancient civilizations, and its streets bear witness to epochs gone by. In times past, Benimaurell served as an essential crossroad for traders and travelers, a nexus where diverse cultures met, exchanged, and coexisted.
Modern-day Benimaurell is a mosaic of history and contemporary life. Its skyline is punctuated with historic towers, remnants of fortifications that once protected its residents from external threats. These architectural marvels now stand alongside newer structures, embodying the town’s evolution over time. Benimaurell’s location, cradled by mountains and overlooking lush valleys, offers a respite from the hustle and bustle, making it an ideal haven for those seeking peace and inspiration.
This region of Costa Blanca is a paradise for people who love to spend their time enjoying the bliss of the wonderful nature of Spain. Whether you choose hiking trails on the coast of Marina Alta or inland, you are on top of the game. It doesn’t mean that the best walking routes around Benidorm in Marina Baixa are worse, but Marina Alta as a region is on a totally another level, and La Vall de Laguar is not an exception but rather a rule.
One of the most famous trails, this route lets hikers witness the ‘Hell’s Gorge’ up close. The trail stretches approximately 14 km/8.7 mi and offers panoramic views of cascading waterfalls, ancient Moorish terraces, diverse local flora, and the so-called “La Catedral of Senderismo” (eng. “The Cathedral of Hiking”).
The PR-CV 181 Cavall Verd trail, often referred to as “The Watchman’s Pathway,” is a journey steeped in legend and natural beauty. This moderate-level hike stretches approximately 12 km / 7.5 mi, leading adventurers through a mosaic of landscapes that define the Marina Alta region.
The trail’s name, Cavall Verd, translates to ‘Green Horse,’ and is said to be named after the silhouette of the mountain that resembles a horse’s back. Local lore also speaks of vigilant watchmen who, during times of conflict, would use these heights to spot impending threats from afar.
Spanning roughly ±14 km/8.5 mi, this trail gives a comprehensive view of the entire valley. Hikers pass through dense forests, orchards, and traditional Spanish hamlets, soaking in the essence of La Vall de Laguar.
Ideal for those looking for a light trek, this 6 km/3.7 mi trail culminates at a viewpoint overlooking the Fontilles Sanatorium. The trail meanders through aromatic herb patches and provides opportunities for bird-watching.
Reaching La Vall de Laguar is a journey as rewarding as the destination itself, with scenic routes offering glimpses of the Spanish countryside’s charm.
Setting out from Alicante on the A-70, the cityscapes gradually give way to coastal vistas as you merge onto the AP-7 towards Valencia. Take exit 62, and the N-332 briefly teases with coastal charm before guiding you onto the CV-729 towards Orba. From there, the winding CV-721 weaves through the countryside, culminating in the welcoming embrace of La Vall de Laguar, where the heart of the town offers ample parking.
For the more adventurous, biking to La Vall de Laguar provides an exhilarating experience. There are several bike rental shops in nearby cities like Alicante and Denia. The route, while hilly, offers cyclists a chance to immerse themselves in the region’s natural beauty. Ensure you have a map or GPS, as some trails can be less straightforward.
When I visited La Vall de Laguar for the first time it was a big surprise, and love, almost, from the first sight. Seldom do you find such a relatively easy area to access, yet so mesmerizing with its sheer beauty and the strong aura of remoteness. Of course, the inland parts of Marina Alta like La Val de la Gallinera share those feats, but it is much harder to access as it often requires a dedicated day, while La Vall de Laguar’s location in a relative proximity to the access to the A7 highway, making this area a much more flexible option for a visit.
Another great feature of La Vall de Laguar is its space planning resulting in decent facilities. Unfortunately, you won’t find a public WC but, at least, parking won’t be a problem. Furthermore, the hiking trails are marked really well, and you’ll find plenty of information in English together with the usual local languages Valencian and Castellano.
All things combined, I think La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect peaceful getaway from the ever-busy coast of Costa Blanca and Costa del Azahar. Not only it is a picturesque adventure but it offers an escape into the tranquil yet unsung nature of Spanish mountains. No matter how many friends I have brought to these areas, they were highly impressed by the pristine beauty of it. I wonder if the close proximity to the overpopulated coast gives an extra charm to the immediate pearls of the inland due to the high contrasts. One way or another, La Vall de Laguar makes a perfect destination for anyone who wants to experience Marina Alta by heart and to its fullest.
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