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Cartagena is an ancient port city located in the Region of Murcia, southeastern Spain. Cartagena has been inhabited for over two millennia, and its history and culture can be seen in the many archaeological sites and monuments found across the city. Roman ruins, such as the forum, temple, and amphitheater, which together with the Christian Conception Castle from the XIII century AD are some of the most popular tourist attractions in Cartagena. Not to mention the Carthaginian, Byzantine or Moorish remains, and the modern Art Noveau architectural masterpieces scattered throughout the city, which combined make you feel like in open doors museum.
Cartagena is also home to the Museo Nacional de Arqueología Subacuática, which contains artifacts from the many shipwrecks that have occurred in the area. Cartagena is also the home to the first modern working submarine in the world – The Peral Submarine – which could be seen in Cartagena Naval Museum. The city continues its nautical traditions and hosts a Naval and Oceanic Engineering University and a naval military base. One of the four main military bases of the Spanish Navy and the only one located on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. This speaks volumes of the city’s strategic importance to whoever possesses it. Naturally, various military ships could be observed docked in the port of Cartagena. Huge tankers, and huge cruise ships are also a common sight. Overall, the second largest city in Murcia is a perfect city for naval, military, and history enthusiasts.
Cartagena was founded in 229 BC by Hasdrubal Barca under the name of Qart-Hadast. He was a son of Hamilcar Barca and brother-in-law of the legendary Carthaginian general Hannibal Barca, who is often cited as the biggest outside threat that the Roman Republic ever faced. Cartagena was one of the towns founded by the Punics during the expansion of their activities in the Iberian Peninsula after the First Punic War to pay off rather unfair reparations demanded by the Romans after the First Punic War, explaining the ancient mines surrounding the city like the ones in La Union and Mazzaron. It was a minelar rich area, and the peninsula surrounded by the sea, a natural Laguna and mountains seemed like a perfect location for a city. The conditions were so good, that Hasdrubal forseen the town as the Capital of his Iberian Kingdom. He even built a fancy Palace on Molinete Hill, so magnificent that would only fit a King.
Unfortunately, Qart-Hadast didn’t last for long. The newly-found city was captured by the Romans in 209 BC during the second Punic Wars, 9 years after Hannibal launched the attack from this town against the Roman Republic and their allies in 218. The victors renamed the newly-founded Qart-Hadast to Cartago Nova. The mining opportunities made the town one of the most prosperous settlements in Romana Hispanica. By the end of the I century, the most exposed deposits were depleted but Cartagena remained flourishing during the Roman period – it was an essential port for trade and commerce.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, followed the fall of Cartago Nova. The city was sacked and occupied by the Visigoths and later on by the Moors. It was recaptured by the Christians in 1245 and became an important naval base for the Spanish fleet. During the 18th century, Cartagena was a major trading port for goods from the Americas.
Unfortunately, due to its importance, Cartagena has seen a lot of war. It was the site of a major naval battle in 1741 between the British and the Spanish. Later on, Cartagena was besieged by the French in 1811, and it was bombarded by the British in 1812. The city was partially destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution, captured by the Americans in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. But in the end it was the Spanish Nationalists who did the most damage to the city. During the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Cartagena was the main naval base of the Republican Government and it was the last city to surrender to the forces of General and future dictator Francisco Franco.
Today, Cartagena is a popular tourist destination known for its exciting mix of old and new architecture, exceptionally rich history, good local Spanish cuisine, and big range of various beverages. Besides cultural ventures, the city is known for its beautiful natural location surrounded by mountains, filled with remote beaches, and coves.
The Punic Wall in Cartagena is a defensive wall built by Carthaginians before the second Punic Wars period somewhere between 229 and 209 BC. This cultural monument is among the top things to do in Cartagena because it is the only clearly visible remaining piece of the original Carthaginian Qart-Hadast. The wall was built in order to protect the city from the local enemies and potentially future confrontations with Romans. Being one of the most well-preserved Punic walls remaining, it is a very important archaeological site not only on the National scale but on a global as well. The Punic Wall in Cartagena is one of the very few archaeological remains of Carthaginians in Spain.
Interesting that the remaining wall is facing the only land passage to the fortified part of the town. The first attempt to conquer Qart-Hadast by Romans failed miserably and had both tribunals slain together with their armies somewhere by these Punic walls. Nevertheless, the resilient Romans returned under the command of Publius Cornelius Scipio, a son, and nephew of the two commanders who died during the first attempt. He had his troops establish their base on Mount Mercury (Cabezo de los Motos), not too far from Cartagena. From there the Romans proceeded a blockade, though with limited results. The great Roman general had his difficulties penetrating the city’s walls but he wouldn’t be great if he didn’t. Scipio ordered some troops to trespass the salty lagoon from the north. Carthaginians didn’t respect enemies from that side, so the troops climbed the walls unnoticed after which they were able to open the main gates and let the rest of the army into the city. After this ingenious plan, most of the Carthaginians surrendered while a few fought their last on the hills of Conception and Molinete.
In addition to the oldest defense fortress in Cartagena, you’ll get to see awkwardly uncomfortable macabre Dances of Death paintings in the 16-17th century Crypt of San Jose, which was excavated at the same time as the wall and seems to have been built within it.
The Roman Amphitheater of Cartagena is one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in Spain and the second largest in the Iberian Peninsula, falling under the equivalent in Merida, Extremadura. The amphitheater was built in 5-1 BC during the reign of the great Emperor Augustus and was dedicated to his grandchildren. At that time it originally seat up to 6,000 people. Today, due to its good condition and some renovations, the amphitheater is still used for cultural events such as plays and concerts.
The amphitheater is the home to the archeology museum, where you can learn not only about the Roman past but the evolution of the surrounding area throughout the years. It was always in the center of Cartagena’s development – nowhere else the intermix of the cultures could be better observed in the city. The Roman Amphitheater could also be appreciated from the castle hill, but you can only learn more about its fascinating history if you decide to visit the museum.
The Roman Fortuna House in Cartagena is a museum offering a unique experience of taking a glimpse into the past of the daily life of Romans. The exposition is located in the former home of Patrician living in Cartagena. Here you’ll get to learn about the typical Roman upper-class villas, the museum also contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found during the excavations in the area. Probably the most interesting remains of Fortuna House are the mosaics and mural paintings.
The name of the house comes from the inscription “Fortuna”, located at the back door. This Latin phrase translates to “Good luck”. Roman houses typically included such inscriptions in the entrance to the home to welcome visitors and warm intruders.
The Roman Forum of a rectangular site located in the center of the city. It measures approximately 100 x 50 meters. The Forum was the center of public life in the city during the Roman period. It was probably built in the 1st century BC and was in use until the 5th century AD. The Roman Forum was used for public speeches, meetings, and other events. Probably the most fascinating thing about this archaeological site is that the excavations never stopped and new artifacts and findings continue to emerge.
The Roman Forum could be observed from Arqueológico Cerro del Molinete Park located on the hill near the site but if you want to learn more about this timeless site you can do so in the Molinete Roman Forum Museum. It is dedicated to the findings that were made in the area, including the Colonial Forum. the Sanctuary of Isis, the Port’s Thermal Baths, and the Atrium building. The museum contains a collection of Roman artifacts that were found in the area, as well as a number of other archaeological items.
The Conception Castle was built in the 13th century by the Order of Calatrava to defend the city from attack. The castle is situated on the top of Conception Hill, overlooking the harbor and the city, which offers probably the best vistas over Cartagena. This site was used as a military base until the early 20th century, but today it is the perfect place to get closer to the history of the city. Before the current Christian castle, here stood a Roman temple dedicated to Asclepius, and a Moorish castle later on.
The area around the Conception Castle is open to all visitors and could be accessed either on foot or by the panoramic lift. The castle itself could be visited for a fee and it offers even more beautiful vistas and some insights into the evolution of the city over more than two millennia.
One of the most pleasant surprises in Cartagena is its modernist architecture from the times of the gold rush in the XIX century. Advancing technologies made ‘depleted’ deposits from the Roman times profitable again, thus many traveled to the areas with high mining potential like Cartagena for a better fortune. At that time the city was partly destroyed during the Cantonal Revolution of 1873 making it a perfect storm for the construction of the new modernist buildings to reflect the sudden riches that Carthaginians experienced at this time. Everything was built in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles to reflect the prosperity of Cartagena and its inhabitants.
For recent years I’ve been living in Vienna, which is obviously no stranger to splendid Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture, but the extravagance found in Cartagena from the XIX and XX centuries doesn’t stop to surprise me. Some buildings, like the Grand Hotel, we’re of course inspired by the modernist Viennese and French architecture. Other notable Art Nouveau masterpieces found in Cartagena include Aguirre Palace, Consistorial Palace, Casa Maestre, Casata Clares, Casa Cervantes, Casa Dorda, Casa Llagostera, Casa Zapata, and the Casino. Exploring the city in search of these masterpieces is a fun thing to do, though it is a bit heartbreaking at the same time because many of their architectural masterpieces are left to ruin, or partly destroyed already. With the current economic status of the city, Carthaginians don’t find a fit for such extravagant buildings.
I have to admit, it took me quite a few visits before I started visiting museums. Cartagena is so much fun and rewarding to simply wander around and explore. It is like a book of history itself. See it yourself.
Undoubtedly, Cartagena is one of my, if not THE favorite cities in the whole country. Nowhere else I have seen so much fascinating and difficult history of the Iberian Peninsula in such a small place. In Cartagena, it is absolutely normal to find Roman, Arab, Christian, and modern in such close proximity, almost on top of each other. The city is like a history book. Cartagena is an absolute must-visit for every culture and history fan, though nature enthusiasts will be surprised by the surrounding nature as well.
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